We've planned to walk the Peak Pilgrimage over the next 5 days. This will give us an opportunity to explore parts of the White Peak and perhaps have time for quietness and reflection. Our timetable is relaxed, taking 4 days to cover the approximate 70km. Our schedule can be seen here which you may copy and adapt to suit your own goals.
Today we travelled to Ilam, the start of the route, and hard to reach by public transport. We took an express train from Sheffield to Derby and connected with a local bus to Ashbourne. The bus had minor mechanical problems but completed the journey largely on schedule. At the time of writing, there are two bus routes between Derby and Ashbourne. One, is a little slower and direct from the train station. The other is more frequent, ten minutes faster, but has to be found at the bus station. Other buses travel to Ashbourne from, for example, Buxton.
Such is the difficulty in reaching Ilam by bus, that the guidebook recommends walking from Ashbourne, an easy 8km. We set our pace for the journey by pausing for a coffee in Ashbourne and taking 2.5 hours to cover the gentle field paths and riverside walk to the Youth Hostel. We had time to explore the grounds and adjacent church before eating in the restaurant.
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| The medieval St Bertram's bridge across the River Dove |
The hostels seem to serve a standard menu which is fairly good value with adequate, but not generous, portions. They are mostly licensed for alcohol sales nowadays as well. The hostel was fairly busy as it was hosting a school party, but as our room was in an annex, and the children being tired from an afternoon of playing in the grounds, we had a quiet night.

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