Peak Pilgrimage Day 4

I didn't expect to walk any unfamiliar paths today, but the route held a surprise for me close to the end. We had a sunny 17km to walk from Baslow, starting with the ascent to Baslow Edge, and then along Curbar Edge.

The edge becomes wooded towards the north

Despite walking along frequently, the distance between Curbar Gap and the main road always surprises me. The steep descent through Hay Woods was a reward with its bluebells and hints of temperate rainforest. Once in Grindleford, after the obligatory refreshments, the path turned back southwards towards Froggatt.

A variety of trees and a millstone grit wall

The guidebook offers a choice of routes from Baslow, the longer steeper one we took, or a much shorter route between Baslow and Carver. Whichever you take, you miss a church, unless you add a detour onto the edge route. We elected not to do this as the sun was hotter than expected and we didn't want to risk missing our bus home.

Stoney Middleton is a larger village than first appearances suggest and it has a rare octagonal (Wikipedia lists 11 whereas the guide suggests there are only two in England) church, in this case dedicated to St Martin of Tours.

Strong sunlight providing the atmosphere

The final walk was over 'The Cliff' towards Eyam. We've never walked on this ridge even though it is central to the historic story of Eyam as 'The Plague Village'. The boundary stone between Eyam and adjacent Stoney Middleton is near the summit of the ridge and marked the border of the 17th century lockdown. 

After visiting the last church on the route in Eyam we had a wait before the bus was due and found The Miners Arms close to the bus stop.

Summary

Over the 5 days we've recorded walking 73km, including 5km from home to the railway station, with an ascent of around 1700m. The 4 and a bit day schedule has been fairly easy going and due to the well-made paths should be within the reach of many. We were fortunate with the weather in being dry throughout and only briefly rather hot. The weather forecast was for a prolonged dry period beforehand so we took the risk on taking only lightweight waterproofs. This saved a fair bit of weight and volume. In view of the mild weather and lowland nature of the pilgrimage we packed lightly, each using 20 litre rucsacs. Our pack weights were under 5kg and 8kg, mine being the heavier due to a 1litre water bottle (there are many spots to fill-up should it be needed), a camera and various oddments such as USB charger, first aid kit and FRA-style survival bag.  

Peak Pilgrimage Day 3

Today was our longest walk on the pilgrimage at 21km with 400m of ascent. We also moved into an area we are more familiar with. Just on the outskirts of Monyash we took the path down Lathkill Dale. Over the next 5 km the dale changed from dry and grassy, to damp, narrow and oppressive and eventually to deep with a significant river.

Small falls along the river

Along the way various streams emerged from the valley walls and floor to strengthen the flow. In the valley near Over Haddon there used to be mills powered by the water. It was a fair ascent up to Over Haddon village and its welcoming pub. Along the way we passed the church on a small level piece of land. Once on higher ground, and fortified, it was a short walk to the exceptionally busy town of Bakewell. This is a handy place for provisions for the last quarter of the journey, should they be required. The church is on the far side of town, up a rather steep road.

Once again, sunlight highlights detail in a church

From Bakewell we were on a route we knew well, across the ridge to Chatsworth. We were relieved to see the village of Edensor as we descended from Calton pastures knowing that we had only a few kilometres to walk into Baslow. The guidebook suggests that one might like to detour into Chatsworth House and its gardens. We've been a few times over the years but I'm not convinced that a stately home visit sits well in a pilgrimage, in whatever way you wish to experience a few days of peaceful walking.

Although Baslow is a substantial village with 3 hotels I found very few spaces when I booked. Ultimately we were not impressed with where we stayed, especially in view of its price. On the bonus side, there are two little shops that supply chocolate bars and bananas into the evening.

Peak Pilgrimage Day 2

We were on our way bright and early today as we breakfasted ahead of the group. There were also no church stops along the path so the focus was on the route and the surrounding nature. Unfortunately, the few kilometres along the Tissington Trail to Parsley Hay were bitterly cold, despite the sunshine, due a strong wind blowing across the railway embankment. I suspect this area is often colder than its surroundings from comments by the B&B owners.

It's clearly limestone country

After a coffee break at the junction we headed off the trail across limestone-walled fields and soon reached Monyash. Today's walk was only 14km so we had plenty of time to explore the church, the village pond and the Bull's Head pub. The weather was warm and sunny so it was pleasant to watch the local heron hunt fish in the pond. "... Nature, red in tooth and claw ..." etc.

Forget-me-knots adorned many gravestones

The Sheldon House B&B was also generous and let us check-in early. We'd thoroughly recommend this as a luxurious place to stay. Likewise the Bull's Head was very welcoming and served excellent food. It was working out well to have a substantial breakfast and then a few snacks in the day before a dinner. 

I suggested that we could have walked twice the distance today but it wasn't a popular view! There's also the issue that there are actually limited places to stay so there aren't many permutations of mileage possible.

Peak Pilgrimage Day 1

The pilgrimage is designed to travel through villages with small churches, open to the public, where one can collect a bible verse and be contemplative. I left Christianity over 45 years ago but am happy to sit (briefly!) in the shelter of a quiet church, especially if it requires a walk through a new area to reach it. Even though we walked yesterday, the route officially starts today, and fortunately any rubbing shoes and stiff shoulders have resolved overnight.

Most of today's 18km was along the River Dove, with a detour uphill to Alstonefield around midway. The morning was in the ever-so-popular Dovedale, but despite pleasant weather we found the dale generally peaceful. After coffee and snacks from the popular Polly's Cottage we headed uphill to the minature Milldale Chapel.

Sunshine through the chapel windows

The route continued through farmland to Alstonefield before descending into Wolfscote Dale to rejoin the river for a few more kilometres. Here the limestone gorge is wider than in Dovedale, not so dramatic, but also usually less busy. After a few field paths that felt longer than they really are, we reached Hartington YH. 

Ropes into the belfry at St Giles Hartington

St Giles was reportedly a cave-dwelling priest, perhaps a hermit, with the power to heal animals. Other saints regarded locally are from caves which perhaps reflects the significance of caves in this limestone area?

Once again there was a school group in the hostel, who although quiet, caused some disruption to the catering which struggled with the combination of a large group meal and the varied orders of other residents. If I were to stay here again I'd be tempted to book a meal in the village if a group was eating in the hostel.

Peak Pilgrimage Day 0

We've planned to walk the Peak Pilgrimage  over the next 5 days. This will give us an opportunity to explore parts of the White Peak and perhaps have time for quietness and reflection. Our timetable is relaxed, taking 4 days to cover the approximate 70km. Our schedule can be seen here which you may copy and adapt to suit your own goals.

Today we travelled to Ilam, the start of the route, and hard to reach by public transport. We took an express train from Sheffield to Derby and connected with a local bus to Ashbourne. The bus had minor mechanical problems but completed the journey largely on schedule. At the time of writing, there are two bus routes between Derby and Ashbourne. One, is a little slower and direct from the train station. The other is more frequent, ten minutes faster, but has to be found at the bus station. Other buses travel to Ashbourne from, for example, Buxton.

Such is the difficulty in reaching Ilam by bus, that the guidebook recommends walking from Ashbourne, an easy 8km. We set our pace for the journey by pausing for a coffee in Ashbourne and taking 2.5 hours to cover the gentle field paths and riverside walk to the Youth Hostel. We had time to explore the grounds and adjacent church before eating in the restaurant.

The medieval St Bertram's bridge across the River Dove

The hostels seem to serve a standard menu which is fairly good value with adequate, but not generous, portions. They are mostly licensed for alcohol sales nowadays as well. The hostel was fairly busy as it was hosting a school party, but as our room was in an annex, and the children being tired from an afternoon of playing in the grounds, we had a quiet night.

Bluebells 2026

This morning I walked between The Ford and Eckington once again in my pursuit of traversing all of the local Rights of Way (RoW). I've visited the Eckington Park area several times now as there is a dense network of paths across a relatively small area. 

Today I ascended through Ladybank Wood and was impressed by the bluebells which were in full flower. The colours were far richer than those I saw in the nearby woods a few days ago. 

The woodland carpeted with bluebells

The area seems to be popular with dog walkers although the dogs I met were all well-behaved. There are many paths around field edges and through the woodlands in addition to the RoW so I had to keep my eye on my map to ensure I wasn't tempted to follow the plentiful desire paths.

Plantar fasciitis

For the last five or so weeks I've noticed pain in my left sole. The physio confirmed my suspicion that it's likely to be plantar fasciitis. Unfortunately this has an uncertain origin and more uncertain timecourse of healing! I'm aware of perpetually tight calf and hamstring muscles on that side, which may well be a predisposing factor.

Walking doesn't seem to irritate my foot so I've been off on walks of various lengths to keep my legs moving. It's well recognised that connective tissues heal best with a non-damaging degree of load and hopefully the walks, with occasional slow jogs will provide a suitable load.

I've not been on any new rights of way as I'm conserving fuel (whilst Israel and America bomb Iran) and aren't keen enough to catch the bus out of town.

Sunrise over the trig point at Oxstones

Today I had the opportunity to be at Oxstones for Easter Sunday sunrise. I'm sure I was the only person on that part of the fell and was lucky enough to spot a few Easter bunnies.

Endless pool #3

This morning felt to be a step forwards once I'd settled in after the usual frantic 'warm-up. The focus was on increasing my forearm catch, largely through control of my elbow. After some practice I was aware of increased pressure on my palm. With a paddle, it seemed to be pressed into my hand and not needing stabilisation with my thumb. Without paddles I tried to reproduce that feeling of power on the water, sometimes I could see a 'power stroke' that accelerated me towards the mirror briefly.

Trying to press through my hand

It helped to visualise leading with my hand with my elbows up, rather than the reaching over a beach ball. However, the video shows that I'm still leading with my elbow, although my forearm is in an improved position which will at least be generating more power.

I also needed to be reminded to keep my head steady in the centre, rotating my body around it on the reach. It's helpful to look yourself in the eyes in the mirror! A good reach felt more powerful and seems to encourage a longer stroke before recovery. Reaching forwards with a steady head may be helpful in avoiding crossover too.

My left arm drifts across my midline

In this photograph, crossover is obvious, the video shows that initial entry is inline with my shoulder but then my arm slips. Here there isn't much body rotation, when I was able to do a more forward reach with rotation the crossover was often avoided.

 

Freestyle skill

I've now been able to review the video of my second endless pool session. In 'catch-up' I'm managing to reach further and keep my head more stable, although I still find the snorkel oppressive. There's clearly more power to my stroke even with a habit of dropping my elbow. Observation and video are so important as I really thought that I achieved high elbow catch consistently. In a way it's a positive sign to see that I don't, as this gives me a skill to develop which once (if I can) mastered will surely result in a more efficient stroke.

Dropped elbow evident during catch-up drill

Looking back at video of swims stretching back nearly 10 years I'm saddened to see only slight improvement in technique. I appreciate that my mobility is less than optimum but I also believe, unfortunately, that I haven't always been given effective advice.

Evening swim coaching

At last I've been able to sign-up for a 10 week freestyle coaching block at the local pool. This will hopefully complement my sessions in the endless pool, some supported practice with fewer opportunities to reinforce poor technique.

I was a little nervous beforehand, fearing it would be too intense or that I'd be unable to cope with the drills. We were split into two groups, the known fast and powerful squad and 'the rest'. The latter had a  range of ability from a new freestyle swimmer through a range, perhaps with me being towards the more experienced. We did some classic drills, but not too much, and some observed swims, with individual feedback, all done in a supportive way.

This is quite a budget option, at around 2x a basic pool entry fee, and with a fairly small group size, excellent value for money. This is a far better option than the block I completed recently as we all received technique tips, which in my case, I know to be areas that I need to continue to work on.

I told you I was ill

Fortunately I wasn't as ill as Spike Milligan but I was very much out of action for exercise for almost a week. After last week's recorder lesson (maybe there should be a whole blog on that?) I faded and spent much of the weekend and beginning of this week under a blanket. I postponed Monday's circuit class until yesterday.

Swimming was also out of the question until Wednesday and I took it easy then. The common cold is a trivial illness but feels far worse than it deserves to. I'm still not 100% well but have managed some activity without falling back into bed. I've noticed that my resting heart rate (RHR) mapped my underlying lethargy remarkably well.

RHR from my Garmin's optical wrist sensor 

It's 'well known' that RHR increases by up to 10bpm in mild infections although serious evidence to support this isn't easily found. I spotted that my RHR dipped below its average on recovery and I suspect that this might be due to reduced physiological stress in the absence of medium length runs, aka sitting around at home!

I'm not going to make this into a larger analysis, but if you are thinking of doing that, this report is a great example of the "quantified self" movement (which may well be beyond its apogee).

Incidentally, I submitted heart rate data to my GP this week and the RHR of 40bpm caused some concern as it's a threshold of severe bradycardia. I'm booked in for an ECG next week, no significant NHS waiting list there! Personally I don't believe I've a sinus problem or heart block as my heart rate adapts rapidly and predictably to exertion and rest just as it should do. 

Coal Aston paths

Today has had lovely spring weather, a far cry from the months of rain that characterised the start of 2026. I took the opportunity to complete another small section of my rights of way project, focussing on some paths to the northeast of Coal Aston that I'd missed in previous visits.

A region around Birlehay is now completed

It's a mixed area, mostly arable farm land but interleaved with small woodlands, villages and paddocks. The fields around here accumulate water in wet weather and don't seem to drain at all well, so paths are often wet and muddy. Paths across fields south of Povey Farm seem to be in the process of being lost. There were historical arguments that walkers should walk around crops but nowadays the law is quite clear that cross-field paths should be cleared. In some places even the stiles are lost or the hedgerow unbroken. A wet-weather task might be write to the local highways authority.

Trees in a hedge between two recently-sown arable fields

The terrain could be described as 'rolling countryside', so there aren't any significant hills but even on today's fairly short run there was nearly 500m of ascent. Much of that was slippery mud, so not an easy circuit.

I'm currently troubled by plantar fasciitis in my left foot and the physio has speculated that it may be aggravated running in mud, where forces can be higher and unpredictable than on a well-made path. My habitually tight calf muscles probably don't help either. Some online advice promotes stretching and roller/ball exercises and like many runners I'm aware these can benefit mobility but tend to neglect them.

Endless pool #1

In my ongoing quest for freestyle coaching I'd been following up on local coaches. A personal recommendation never replied to me, a local group is full with a waiting list, and others are some distance away. I did find a fairly local coach with an endless pool who had a short notice cancellation and does one-off bookings (as well as blocks) so I drove over there is morning.

The pool was larger than I'd expected and nicely pre-heated to a pleasant 30 degrees. After a brief chat I was in and on a warm-up swim. Despite the warnings not to race the flow, I did, and ended up with a scrappy short stroke, head-up and feet banging on the bottom. The coach tried to reassure me that everyone starts off badly!

As is so often the case, my initial problem is a falling leading arm which I'm aware of and can control better at a relaxing pace in the local pool. However, this showed that it occurred when stressed, which is probably the case for many, especially in tougher open water conditions. I then did catch-up drill with a snorkel, which gradually went from tough and claustrophobic to relatively comfortable. Even with the snorkel I was nodding from side to side until I focussed on watching myself in the submerged mirror.

Despite my self-belief I was also stopping the stroke just below my waist and so losing the last bit of power that I could use. With small paddles I then had to repeat the catch-up, with a full length stroke. Without a rush! Every few strokes I was aware of a 'good' stroke where things came together and after a few minutes I was bale to manage with a faster flow rate. The flow is a hard task master, any relaxation in pace and you're pushed back, moreover there isn't the momentary rest, and big breath, that occurs at every end of the pool. 

The last drill was catch-up with fins, again, I was aware of the variable quality of strokes. I was also starting to tire. Although I was setting the pace, fins and paddles increase the physical load and in combination with the relentless flow I found that I had to pause fairly often.

We finished with a swim which felt very hard work, I was tired and in the absence of fins my legs were leaden. In the hour the coach had covered a lot of ground. Some video and commentary will be emailed to me but I'm summarising key points while I remember:

1. Focus on keeping leading arm high and forwards when breathing, don't rush;
2. Look straight, no nodding;
3. Extend the power stroke backwards as far as possible;
4. On recovery focus on reaching forwards to avoid submerging my head, actually keep reaching after each entry!;
5. High elbow is good, but not breaking the water, visualise the catch over a ball and keep the upper arm at that depth;
6. Count strokes and rest with fresh focus if it rises rather than retrospectively looking at data.

Swimming lesson #6

I've completed the block of 6 lessons that I'd booked and have mixed feelings about the time. Today I narrowly missed the 2minute/100m goal but I think it's fair to blame that on other people in the pool who I had to avoid. For some reason there wasn't a lane booked for my session, especially important as the pool was busier than usual, presumably due to half term. 

So how have I found the, rather expensive, sessions? On the positive, my sprint pace in an 18 metre pool has improved but I believe a significant proportion derives from faster and more powerful turns. My evidence for this is that my pace gain in a 22 metre (i.e. 25 yard) pool is far more modest. I have additionally noted that my arms tend to enter the water rather wide and should be streamlined better. Also to breath more promptly and not turn to the side for too long. 

However, I feel the 'intensity' of the coaching has been low. I've barely received a teaching tip per session and those I've had, I've followed-up myself on YouTube to gain more insight. In my opinion, I've spent rather too much of the time on 200 metre sets from which I've developed few insights. Overall, the sessions seem more as though I've swum with a critical friend rather than a professional coach. The former is OK, especially when I don't have an effective swim buddy, but not entirely what I had hoped to be exposed to. The coach himself was very personable and a pleasure to chat with between sets. In retirement it's helpful to meet someone early in their career and making plans for the future. I still have plans but they tend to be shorter term!

I fully appreciate that as an adult learner it's my responsibility to develop, and I have fulfilled that role. I've listened, watched videos and re-read sections of swimming books I've got. Likewise there are physical limitations in my strength and mobility, but as before, I've looked into flexibility exercises and continued with practice swims and my circuits classes.

My data shows a modest improvement in sustained pace which is great, but unfortunately it's not as marked as I'd hoped for. Perhaps it's unrealistic, but I'm still thinking there's a near magical technique tip out there that will break my plateau.

Burbage loop

This morning's weather forecast was for crisp, cool sunshine. The first dry day of 2026 perhaps? I'd planned a 20km route into the edge of the National Park with a friend. There'd be a few km at each end, to and from home. That would give me the longest run (or run/walk) I've done in many weeks. 

The forecast was spot-on and we were blessed with a fairly still day, with a little ice and even a thin layer of snow on Burbage Moor.

On Burbage Moor (with Thanks to A, I carried a camera but failed to deploy it!)

The ice caused us to be  cautious of our pace, some rocks were slippery and puddles camouflaged by a hard coating. The lovely weather had encouraged many people onto the moors so we had to pay extra attention to thread our way in places without disturbing others.

Our pace was gentle, partly because of the ice, but largely due to our shared lack of fitness. Ice and hills gave many opportunities to slow to a brisk walk but with my eye on the clock we couldn't slacked too much. I'd promised that we'd complete the 20km in 3 hours. Towards the end I was aware of light cramp in my left calf and hamstring, as tends to be the case.

The Porter Valley is fairly deep and steep-sided for an urban park

I also found that I was generally tired and found the descent and ascent across the Porter Valley on my home especially tough. Once I'd reached Greystones road it really is all downhill.

A little more mileage

This morning's run felt like hard work and I took some photographs as an excuse to take breaks and not run beyond Oxstones. The brook in Limb valley was fast-flowing due to the recent rain. Near the plantation and up to the trig point there was a light mist limiting visibility.

The brook in Limb Valley

Looking back at my records this is the first week in many that I've run more than 40km in the week. I know that's not a lot for many runners but it's always been my target, although rarely met consistently. Over the last few months I've been limited by my aversion to rain, supervision of workmen and trying to improve my swimming skill and fitness. Perhaps that unaccustomed load explains my tired legs?

Swimming lesson #4

Today I achieved the objective I'd set for this block of swim coaching.

Screen shot of coach's phone stopwatch in an 18m pool

This was my second 'sprint' attempt today, the first was 2:01, which would have been satisfactory, but to break the threshold, even by a fraction of a second is great. Over the last 2 weeks I've been focussing on longer sets, up to 350m, whilst concentrating on form, which seems to have paid off.

My plan for the next few weeks is to continue with my endurance programme but to also include a 88m sprint test in my session. My target time will be 01:45min which sounds faster than I've ever managed...

Swimming lesson #3

In my second lesson the key learning point was to try to extend my reach so the catch is initiated further ahead of me. After a few practice lengths I tried a 100m set and could feel that I was reaching the pool end after fewer strokes. I managed this to be one of my fastest sets, but tired thereafter. I also felt aches in my shoulders for a few days.

Over  Christmas I've been to Heeley pool and practiced this, often over shorter sets where I've aimed for  a good pace and form, rather than stamina. Sometimes I've finished my session with a longer set with a pull buoy in an attempt to train arm stamina. Although the data is rather ragged I suspect that I have managed a 2 minute pace over 50 yards more frequently.

Today's lesson was very much building on the pace and stamina aspects. I did manage 36m in 40 seconds which is equivalent to a 01:50min/100m pace which would be great if I could sustain it! We then alternated paced 100m sets with 200m stamina with technique sets. Amongst this I managed my best-yet of 02:07min/100 but wasn't able to get close to this again. Notably, I tried 3 lengths, hoping to hit 1 minute, but was far slower. I was definitely tired.

It's also important to add that my pace at Heeley is slower than in this 18m pool which I put down to gaining from the push off even though my turns are slow. I think a short-length benefit is found for most swimmers.

My conclusion thus far is that I am manging to tidy my stroke marginally but that I am limited by some element of stamina, more muscle fatigue than aerobic. 

Staveley Works

Today I slowly ran the remaining rights of way in the south east corner of my map. I've visited the Chesterfield canal several times now but I'd not been able to reach some paths north of the canal as the footbridges (on footpaths #11 and #12, but of which parish?) have been dismantled, although not apparent to me on the RoW closure register. On this run I approached from the north with an acceptance that I'd go as far as possible and then retrace my steps.

The footpath network on both 1912 and contemporary maps (from NLS)

The maps show a clear route between Barrow Hill and Staveley so I was hoping for a clear run today. From Barrow Hill, heading south east the map shows the path to be fenced, which is very true. So often a path is placed between aging posts with a good width. However, here the path is just wide enough and bordered by high steel fencing with signs threatening trespassers. The land either side is featureless gravel, so not especially inviting anyway.

Trapped between two fences!

After a few hundred metres of being trapped in a rat-run I wasn't able, or perhaps willing, to pass beyond the railway underpass as it was flooded with foul-looking water.

At home, I discovered that the 'Works' is the dismantled remains of the Staveley Chemical Works (aka Devonshire Works) which was started around 1912 (so just after the survey shown above presumably) and finally decommissioned in the 1990s. It was developed to refine byproducts of the iron and coal industries and widened its output in subsequent decades to include chlorine gas and sulphuric acid derivatives (eg oleum). 

The paths are still shown at the height of the works' activity (from NLS)

An online search will take you to a number of aerial photographs of the site and videos by urban explorers of recent years. Significantly, the site has been linked with excessive cancer incidence in workers and poor waste management practices that have resulted in at least one documented industrial accident. On that basis I'm in no rush to trespass, although, in theory, the area has been cleaned-up prior to proposed redevelopment. The Chatsworth Estates has been the owner of the land throughout its intensive use in the industrial revolution, leasing it to various people for iron extraction and chemical manufacture, and will presumably be the freeholders of any new houses.