Peak Pilgrimage Day 2

We were on our way bright and early today as we breakfasted ahead of the group. There were also no church stops along the path so the focus was on the route and the surrounding nature. Unfortunately, the few kilometres along the Tissington Trail to Parsley Hay were bitterly cold, despite the sunshine, due a strong wind blowing across the railway embankment. I suspect this area is often colder than its surroundings from comments by the B&B owners.

It's clearly limestone country

After a coffee break at the junction we headed off the trail across limestone-walled fields and soon reached Monyash. Today's walk was only 14km so we had plenty of time to explore the church, the village pond and the Bull's Head pub. The weather was warm and sunny so it was pleasant to watch the local heron hunt fish in the pond. "... Nature, red in tooth and claw ..." etc.

Forget-me-knots adorned many gravestones

The Sheldon House B&B was also generous and let us check-in early. We'd thoroughly recommend this as a luxurious place to stay. Likewise the Bull's Head was very welcoming and served excellent food. It was working out well to have a substantial breakfast and then a few snacks in the day before a dinner. 

I suggested that we could have walked twice the distance today but it wasn't a popular view! There's also the issue that there are actually limited places to stay so there aren't many permutations of mileage possible.

Peak Pilgrimage Day 1

The pilgrimage is designed to travel through villages with small churches, open to the public, where one can collect a bible verse and be contemplative. I left Christianity over 45 years ago but am happy to sit (briefly!) in the shelter of a quiet church, especially if it requires a walk through a new area to reach it. Even though we walked yesterday, the route officially starts today, and fortunately any rubbing shoes and stiff shoulders have resolved overnight.

Most of today's 18km was along the River Dove, with a detour uphill to Alstonefield around midway. The morning was in the ever-so-popular Dovedale, but despite pleasant weather we found the dale generally peaceful. After coffee and snacks from the popular Polly's Cottage we headed uphill to the minature Milldale Chapel.

Sunshine through the chapel windows

The route continued through farmland to Alstonefield before descending into Wolfscote Dale to rejoin the river for a few more kilometres. Here the limestone gorge is wider than in Dovedale, not so dramatic, but also usually less busy. After a few field paths that felt longer than they really are, we reached Hartington YH. 

Ropes into the belfry at St Giles Hartington

St Giles was reportedly a cave-dwelling priest, perhaps a hermit, with the power to heal animals. Other saints regarded locally are from caves which perhaps reflects the significance of caves in this limestone area?

Once again there was a school group in the hostel, who although quiet, caused some disruption to the catering which struggled with the combination of a large group meal and the varied orders of other residents. If I were to stay here again I'd be tempted to book a meal in the village if a group was eating in the hostel.